The big gear/rotor heads and sprays on the same zone is okay – this is very common but spray heads apply water at 3 times the rate of the big rotors/gear heads so you will always over/under water at the same time.  Another myth is smaller pipe creates more pressure – smaller pipe creates higher velocity but robs you of pressure.  100% coverage often means radius to radius head coverage – radius to radius head spacing looks good on paper and may provide 100% coverage but head to head (if not closer) is always better for applying water evenly.  High pressure makes a pump work harder  - high pressure equals lower flows working the pump and motor less.  Its okay to operate both spray and rotor/gear zones at the same PSI  -  50 PSI may be okay for the big rotor/gear zones but spray heads operate best at 30 PSI or less.  Valve size must match pipe size  -  like pipe sizing valves are sized based on GPM flow and never pipe size.  Two 6 zone timers are cheaper to install than one 12 station timer  -  if you have a single common system this is a electrical code violation because the two timers will electrocute each other and could short and start a fire.  All timers are the same  -  timers can be very basic or have all kinds of features that can operate your sprinkler system with greater efficiency so choose the timer that best fits your needs.    

In Florida the most common lawn grass is St Augustine.  It has a mature growing height of 4 to 6 inches.  Other grasses are Bahia and the newest is Zoysia with both growing around 3 to 5 inches in height at best.  One of the biggest mistakes made when mowing a lawn is most people will mow as low as possible in an effort to control the lawn.  Weeds grow faster than grass so weeds have a very good chance of naturally taking over your lawn if you mow at low heights.  Mow your lawn at the grass mature height, allow the grass to mature and thicken up, and it will crowd out the weeds over time and it will look 10 times better.  Having your yard sprayed for weed control and proper fertilization will expedite this effect.  Sharp mower blades are a must.  Sharpen your blades per the mower manufacturers specs or more often if sandy conditions are present (sand dulls the blade faster).  When finished mowing each grass blade should look like a scissor cut it.  A dull mower blade makes grass look torn with jagged edges and these edges will quickly turn brown giving your yard a brownish look and its not healthy for the grass.  You will want to avoid mowing the same way to avoid creating ruts or wheel paths over time.  Mow in a crisscross pattern or offset half a mower width at each mowing.  You should never see any mower paths in any yard.  Watering tip:  Over watering equals green grass but creates short roots that are susceptible to drought conditions, diseases, and bug infestation.  Proper watering allows the roots to grow deeper over time creating a healthier grass able to withstand drought conditions, fends off diseases, and critters have a harder time with infestation.  Its good to allow your landscape to stress from time to time to force it to grow longer and healthier roots.

As I mentioned in a earlier post living in central Florida we have fresh water lakes everywhere creating the illusion that water is plentiful.  We are surrounded by water on three sides of the state.  It rains like crazy here during the rainy season.  Here are the facts:  75% of the earths surface is covered by water but only about 3% of that water is fresh water fit for human and plant consumption.  The polar ice caps hold about half of that amount leaving us only 1% to 2% for the rest of the world to use.  Here in Florida water restrictions were implemented when it was determined that we were pulling water out of the ground faster than mother nature could replace it.  Each day the population grows taking more water.  Irrigation accounts for half the water loss in most cases due to poor designs and/or equipment application.  Everything we can do to conserve water will help.  Check out your sprinkler systems on a regular basis and make upgrades to ET timers, weather stations, and water conserving equipment.  There are close to 19 million people living here now so we all must do our part to conserve as much water as possible.

This questions answer depends on two things.  If the well is being used for irrigation only or irrigation and drinking water too.  The rule of thumb is whatever the rated GPM of the pump is you match the tanks draw-down ability too.  For example: if you have a pump that is rated for 20 GPM then you need a tank that allows 20 gallons of draw-down.  Draw-down is the amount of water the bladder tank will store and release before the pump comes on to restore it.  For irrigation pumps 1/2 that amount works well.  But for drinking water applications you will want to size the tank with the flow rate as a minimum… if not more.  The more the tank stores the less the pump will have to cycle on to fill the tank.  The less the pump runs the less electricity you use and the less wear and tear on the pump system overall.  So the bigger the tank the better if not multiple tanks.  More tanks allow greater draw down keeping the pump off until it is needed for high flow situations like irrigation.  Since modern tanks have nothing more than a rubber bladder as the only moving part maintenance is easy.  They come pre charged with 40 to 50 PSI of air.  This air pressure outside of the bladder is what is used to force the water out of the bladder instead of the pump.  Bi-annual or annual testing is needed to make sure the air pressure is appropriate.  It will leak out over time for various reasons.  First, make a note of the cut in pressure of the pump (what pressure the pump turns on).  Turn the power off to the pump and open a valve and allow all the water pressure to drop to 0 PSI.  Put a tire pressure gauge on the air valve on the tank and take a reading.  Check the tanks manufacturers instructions for the proper PSI or charge the tank at 2 PSI less than cut in pressure.  Once this is done turn the power back on.  However, if you think its taking a long time to charge or you can open a hose bibb and can feel air coming out – the bladder tank is bad and must be replaced.  Also, when the sprinkler system is running and the pump is turning on and off (cycling) within minutes this is not good.  Best case the pump should come on and stay on during the operation of the sprinkler system.  If its cycling then I would highly recommend a Cycle Stop Valve to stop the cycling.

A backflow preventer is a device required on all sprinkler systems in Florida and must be inspected annually.  It is commonly made out of brass and installed between the water meter and sprinkler system.  Some codes require one on deep wells along with another one at the meter.  The most common devices are DCV (double check valve), PVB (pressure vacuum breaker), and RPZ (reduced pressure zone).  The RPZ provides the best protection and when installed correctly will meet all backflow codes.  The main purpose of the backflow preventer is to prevent contamination of the potable water supply.  Water will only flow in one direction and toward the sprinkler system.  During the rare event that the city water supply fails and creates a vacuum water can not back up into the city water main contaminating it.  If the city water main becomes contaminated it must be abandoned and replaced.  There are examples of entire neighborhoods having bottled water brought in for months due to these types of accidents when a simple backflow device could have prevented it.  Deep wells pull water from our drinking water aquifer.  Should power to the pump or the pump check valve fail the backflow preventer will protect the aquifer by not allowing water to flow back into the well that may have been contaminated.  Contact your local sprinkler company, backflow tester, or water supplier if you are unsure if you have one and what may be required per state or local code.